Hello, I am dermatologist Jung Ji-in. Last time, we discussed the definition and causes of acne. Today, in our second session, I will explain in detail how to manage acne-prone skin with cosmetics. Many of you may be concerned about choosing cosmetics, so start healthy skin care with the right information.
Acne is not a disease caused by dirt
Many people think that using cosmetics worsens acne, or they look for cosmetics specialized in drying sebum or removing acne. However, acne is not simply a disease caused by dirt or that is contagious. Focusing only on acne bacteria and using strong cleansing or overusing antibiotic treatments can be the wrong approach.
Four important pathophysiological characteristics of acne are as follows:
- Excessive growth of sebaceous glands and increased sebum secretion
- Pores being blocked, preventing sebum from exiting properly
- Proliferation of acne bacteria
- Our body's inflammatory response
Among these, the proliferation of acne bacteria is just one of several causes, and other factors are also involved. In other words, simply reducing acne bacteria does not completely eliminate acne.
Do acne-specific cosmetics really work?
Many acne-specific cosmetics, known to eliminate acne bacteria, contain ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, or aloe extracts, which can reduce inflammatory reactions or suppress bacterial proliferation. While these products may offer some supplementary benefits, caution is needed as they can sometimes worsen skin conditions.
Many people mistakenly believe that cosmetics containing vitamin A are the same as prescription retinoid medications used for acne treatment. However, cosmetics and prescription medications are distinctly different. Prescription medications with high concentrations of ingredients are effective but also carry a risk of side effects. Therefore, it is important to carefully assess your skin condition and follow a specific prescription after a dermatologist's diagnosis. Cosmetics are often allowed only in very low concentrations to minimize the possibility of side effects, making it difficult to expect significant improvement.
What cosmetic ingredients are good for acne-prone skin?
Cosmetics should be used with a focus on management rather than treatment. Nowadays, cosmetic ingredients are clearly labeled, making them easy to check. Ingredients known to help with acne management include:
- AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid)
- Glycolic acid
- Salicylic acid
- Tea tree oil
- Sulfur
Except for vitamin A, the other ingredients can have some efficacy in cosmetics and can be included in concentrations that help manage acne.
Ingredients to avoid and the importance of proper moisturizing
Conversely, there are also ingredients that are not good for acne-prone skin. Generally, waxes or oily ingredients that can clog pores (e.g., isopropyl myristate) may fall into this category. However, not all oily ingredients are absolutely bad. This is because proper moisturizing of the skin can prevent sebaceous glands from becoming overly active.
Avoid managing skin with excessively oil-stripping ingredients or alcohol-based products. In this process, if the skin becomes dry and irritated, the skin's protective barrier function can be damaged, which may cause sebaceous glands to become overly active.
If it's difficult to check these ingredients individually, using products labeled non-comedogenic or oil-free can be helpful. However, it is not right to excessively remove oil and dry out the skin, so proper moisturizing is essential.
Cosmetic replacement guide when troubles occur
If skin troubles occur due to cosmetics, you might consider changing the products you are using. Instead of replacing all products in a line at once, it's best to stop them one by one in the following order to find the cause:
- Oil cleanser
- Sunscreen
- Foundation
This method can help narrow down which ingredients are causing acne. However, if acne is severe or persistent, we recommend consulting a dermatologist and starting active treatment before it develops into inflammatory acne.
Can acne be resolved with cosmetics alone?
Of course, some improvement in acne may be possible with cosmetics alone. However, the effectiveness varies greatly depending on the type and severity of acne. While some acne can be resolved with simple management, many cases require intensive medication or complex procedures. It is difficult for a layperson to distinguish these cases, so it is necessary to visit a dermatology clinic for an accurate diagnosis.
Today, we discussed acne cosmetics and proper management methods. Consistent and delicate care is important for acne-prone skin, and it is wise to seek help from a dermatologist when necessary.